Not having been out and about photographing for the fun of it for a while the thought came to me a while ago that I’d like to give another go at doing some IR photography. I’d bought a Cokin IR filter a while ago and so had the kit already.
Also – living close to it but never having visited I thought that Nunhead Cemetery would be a good spot – Graveyards always look good in IR.
If you’re not interested in techie photography ramble and explanation – just jump to the end to see my photos.
Equipment used (and had already):
- Nikon D800
- Nikon 24-70mm
- Cokin P-series filter holder + 77mm adapter
- Cokin P-series IR filter (P007)
- Remote shutter release (3rd party wired from eBay)
The problem with trying to shoot Infrared with standard D-SLRs is that in front of the sensor they have a IR/Low-pass filter. Although it doesn’t block ALL IR light – it blocks much of it. So if you’re not going to go to the effort/expense of converting a camera and taking this out – you need to use an IR filter, which only allws IR and near-IR light in, and have a fairly extended exposure time.
There are numerous filters on the market – I just happen to have a Cokin P-series filter. I bought this a while ago as the advantage of Cokin filters is that you buy adapter rings for the holder and so you can use the filters (panes of glass) for different sized lenses – thus saving on the expense of buying multiple filters. At the time I invested in this system Cokin were only doing A and P-series filters – A being small and P larger in size. They now also have Z and X series which are even larger. P-series are rated up to 82mm – but there are issues when shooting wide-angle lenses.
Reading up online it seems that the Cokin filter isn’t the best of the IR filters available commercially – but it’s the one I have. Sometimes they’re rated in terms of light frequency they will block.
So – I have a D-SLR with a filter to cut out IR wavelengths, and in front of it I have a filter to only allow IR in. This means that exposure times need to be quite long to get enough IR light to give a decent exposure – hence using a tripod and remote shutter release to reduce/stop any camera movement.
I found that when shooting wide-angle alas the Cokin filter holder would cause a vignette – although shooting IR and the camera warm – the Vignette would be light rather than dark.
Taking a picture
Tripod – check
Remote shutter release – check
Eventually I changed the camera setup so that it would shoot after a Mirror lock-up just in case that cased vibration.
After a while (it was light out – seeing the LCD screen wasn’t great) I realise that there was some lens flare happening on the filter. Due to the filter holder I was unable to put a lens hood on. Additionally – because there is a slight gap between the filter and the lens – the lens flare (or filter flare) was even happening when pointing away from the sun – the sun was getting into this gap. So I would stand in-between the sun and the camera. However thinking it might be interesting – I also took shots allowing some flare to happen.
Focusing : Because the IR filter is so dark – the camera has no way of focusing using traditional methods – so you have to focus before putting the filter on.
So my procedure for a new shot was:
- Set-up tripod + camera
- Frame shot (without IR filter)
- Switch focusing to Manual (if using autofocus originally)
- Put IR filter in the holder
- Close viewfinder cover (in case extra light got in)
- Take a picture
- Check Picture on LCD. However this was hard to judge in the light so often viewed the histogram and trusted this.
- Repeat with exposure changes, and sometimes compostion/orientation changes, and on occasion – allowing flare.
I found that the exposure values I often used were:
White Balance: Auto (I think – didn’t change it.)
File type: RAW
Wide depth of field:
Shutter speed: 20-30seconds
Shallow depth of field:
Shutter speed: 6sec-10sec
Of course – these values will vary for other cameras depending on their IR sensitivity and the amount of IR light/heat etc.
Should have done:
LCD Loupe: It would have been handy to have a LCD loupe (e.g. Hoodman Loupe) to be able to see the results on the back of the camera.
White Balance: After reading sites online on how to process IR images I realised that I should have, or at least tried to, set a white balance on the camera. With IR filters a little red light still comes through and so pictures usually appear with a red tint. It seems it might be possible to remove this using a custom white balance. It obviously won’t be the standard light colours but should be more interesting than just white. More of this in Processing section.
Focusing: Have read somewhere that focusing should be done differently from my method of focusing without the filter initially – the reason being is that the IR wavelength is significantly different from visible light. Not sure how much of an effect this is. I did notice that if I switched to live-view that the LCD did actually show an approximation of the picture I’d get rather than just dark red! So maybe live view may have done a better job of focusing.
In the past I just converted IR photos to simple Black and White images, probably through Photoshop. However I thought I’d look up alternative methods – or at least the best way of doing it – possibly within Camera Raw – this lead me to all kinds of options – and included the tip about White Balance I mentioned above.
As per so many other things with digital photograph editing – there are SOOO many ways to edit things and so I won’t go into the options here – instead I’ll just cover what I did.
In the past I’ve accepted the fact that the picture will look totally red because of the near-IR light getting in through the filter. However various guides online suggest it might be possible to set a custom white balance to correct for it in the camera – possibly using Live View. However….. I didn’t do this.
So the usual way I set white balance is with Camera Raw – however within itself Camera raw isn’t sufficient on this occasion - the slider will only go so far – not far enough to correct for the VERY red picture. So this calls for an additional process. Some online guides suggest using an alternative RAW converter but another couple I read pointed at the method I eventually used : Creating a DNG profile, applying this first, then using Camera Raw’s own White Balance correction.
To use a DNG profile you need to:
1. A create a DNG file.
You can convert one of your RAW files to a DNG file using Adobe’s. There’s one for Windows, and one for MAC. It’s free but you need to register with Adobe and get a AodbeID. Creating a DNG file is fairly straight forward.
2. Create the Profile file
To create a profile I used Adobe’s DNG Profile Editor. Again free if you have a Adobe Labs ID, or after you register.
To create the Profile (also known as Recipe):
- Open one of your DNG files
- Change the controls on the right to the Color Matrices tab
- Move the “White Balance Calibration” setting – “Temperature” slider all the way to the left. So the red picture turns more orange.
- Export the Profile using “File -> Export” to the Camera Profiles folder of Adobe. Initially it selected the correct folder for me but trying just now it didn’t. On Windows 7 this is : C:\Users\<USER NAME>\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\CameraRaw\CameraProfiles\ Using a name that represents it’s use i.e. for IR.
- Close the editor.
Here’s a picture of the slider:
Also the picture pre and post doing this.
To use this profile you then open your RAW picture in Camera Raw, go to the Camera Calibration tab – and select your new profile there – it should be in the list, e.g. (bottom of the drop-down) :
See profile: Nikon D800 IR Recipe.
After that the picture in camera RAW looks orangey. You can then use the White Balance sliders as normal – or the white balance sampler tool. Depending on where you sample this will turn parts of your image orange, and parts blue.
Standard Raw Processing
After the White Balance work you can continue with RAW editing as you normally would, for me this includes:
To get the most of the image.
Then open the image into Photoshop.
A lot of blogs/guides then suggest swapping the red and blue channel. Not sure why – but this just works – maybe because it has a tendency to turn the sky blue rather than orange – which makes sense to our unconscious mind.
To do this either create a Channel mixer adjustment - or better a Channel Mixer Adjustment Layer. Then on the
Red Channel: Change Red to 0% andBlue to 100%
Blue Channel: Change Blue to 0% and Red to 100%
This changes a picture from:
There were a couple of images that I didn’t do this to – they just seemed to work in their original state.
Then continue with your other editing.
Mine varied from picture to picture but some common edits included:
- Adjusting Saturation (mostly reduced)
And that’s it really.
And so finally – my pictures.
As mentioned above – these aren’t perfect – some have accidental lens-flare and some are on purpose – as after all I think it looks quite nice.
Click on them to see a larger image.
Here’s a little video that friends and I recorded last June during the London to Brighton Bike ride.
My friend Zoe is the main person behind the UK distribution of Stepper bikes: http://www.3gstepperbike.co.uk. She’d got a team of friends together to do the charity ride on them and asked me if I could do some photography for them. I thought we could do better than just photography – why not video it using the GoPro’s we have at work!
So armed with 6 GoPros and various attachments we kitted out their bikes and one helmet to record it. Needless to say we have HOURS of footage. I’ve only recently found time (and remembered!) to put something together. The internet being what it is with a short attention span I wanted the video to be limited to 3-5 minutes. So I found a suitable song and put a few clips together. Shame it’s so short but it meant only one (long) evening for me.
After producing this someone mentioned that Premiere Pro has a stabilising effect inbuilt – if only I’d known! Don’t fancy re-doing it as I’d have to upload separately and Vimeo free account will only allow one HD video a week.
And a few photos.
Think I may have posted something very similar before – or it could be on Facebook. Either way this is both curious and interesting: A video on the ever increasing trend in fashion bloggers and photographers.
Obviously there are the very old-school people like Ian Cunningham (see previous post about a film about him) and then more recently it’s been made popular by the likes of The Sartorialist. But it now seems to be exploding!
During London Fashion week I passed a venue where there was a show and there must have been a dozen or so photographers there. Only one or two who looked like pros.
It’s also interesting to see that a couple of people being photographed are rather common in the different situations – as if they in turn follow the photographers!
(Found via PetaPixel)
I’ve just done another product shoot for a friend – this time for Shannon of Forgotten Feline.
I must have a lot of creative and entrepreneurial friends
Shannon/Forgotten Feline is a taxidermist and creates fun and quirky taxidermy – usually mice with fun props in somewhat alternative poses – not your usual stuff. But she’s also doing a line of hats, fascinators, head-pieces and such. It was these that she asked me to photograph.
Setup is similar to my other product shoots:
- White background - over a table.
- Reflector/barn doors light, on a boom, pointing down and back at the background
- White Umbrella camera right pointing down at item
- Silver to subject left bouncing some light at subject and some at background
I could use a third light instead of the reflector but I prefer to keep it simple – also I’ve found that the white umbrella gives a very good spread of light – more than a softbox would.
Here’s a quick diagram:
Before shooting I take a whitebalance setting using a grey card. A colour checker would be better but I don’t have one yet – I’m keeping an eye on eBay etc for cheap ones.
Editing is fairly basic:
- Double checking the white balance
- General exposure adjusting for the whole picture (usually Exposure, Blacks and Shadow sliders)
- Additional exposure for the background in Camera Raw using Quick Mask
- General other tweaks – Clarity, Vibrance, Saturation.
I shoot RAW, edit in AdobeRGB then convert to sRGB for web.
Here are links to her shop and Facebook pages:
Etsy Shop : http://www.etsy.com/shop/forgottenfeline
Facebook Page : https://www.facebook.com/ForgottenFelineCouture
And a selection of the pictures:
I’m not a Canon user (well other than compact and printer) but spotted this and thought I’d share. Partially as it’s been so long since I blogged anything!
DSLRs – Casback
EOS 5D Mark III
Lenses & accessories – Cashback
EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM
EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM
EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM
EF 17-40mm f/4L USM
EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM
EF 8-15mm f/4L FISHEYE USM
EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM
Compact Cameras – Cashback
PowerShot G1 X
PowerShot SX50 HS
Camcorders – Cashback
LEGRIA HF G25
Printers – Cashback
Just watched Joey L.’s free on-line documentary : Varanasi, India: “Beyond”
(Please watch it in HD full screen, not in this little window)
Its partly about Varanasi and the Sadu’s but also partially about their journey and photography/cinematography.
Other than the fact that I think Joey L. is amazingly talented there are a few things that I really like in the documentary :
The fact that they don’t storm in to taking photos – they take a little time to get to know people and get their trust first and have a brief relationship – which I guess when most of us go on holiday we don’t have the luxury of time.
And also the fact that although his equipment is top-notch (e.g. digial medium format) – the setup is relatively simple but gets stunning results. Must be very careful in matching the flash to the ambient light.
There seem to be quite a few Photographer based Documentaries in the works at the moment!
Just seen (via Photo Archive News) that there’s one about Don McCullin showing in London at the moment! May go and see. Although there are a few conflict photography films I have on DVD but yet to watch e.g. Bang Bang Club.
I only realised that Don McCullin was still alive a year or so ago. Since then I’ve :
- Been to see his exhibition at the Imperial war museum which was very impressive – including his famous Nikon which stopped a bullet.
- Just got his autobiography this Christmas (but not read yet) : “Unreasonable Behaviour: An Autobiography”.
- And also realised I’ve lived a couple of streets away from where he grew up in Finsbury Park
Anyway – I have lot of respect for the guy – not just because of photography skill – but how he talks with compassion and emotion about how, what and why he photographed and also the effect it had on him.
Here’s a trailer:
Oh damn – I totally forgot to put some Movember updates up here. All friends are likely bored of my Facebook posts anyway.
Here’s a couple more photos.
Remember – it’s all towards a good cause and if you donate over £16 to me or my team you coud win lots of shiny camera/video gear!
See the ever increasing list of prizes at Philip Blooms site – our team leader and organiser of the prizes.
And it’s not all about money of course – Prostate Cancer affects 1 men in 6!! So if there’s a history of it in your family you should get yourself checked sometime.
EDIT: Although Movember funds are open until April – you only have a few hours left to donate and enter the prize draw of my team. Minimum donation and instructions info here : http://gopb.co/movember
Recently come across this iPlayer showing of an episode of the “imagine…” series on BBC which is about William Klein and thought I’d share. (UK only unless you’re going through a proxy))
On the whole I don’t know much of well known photographers and hadn’t heard of William Klein before either. But apparently he was listed as No 25 in Professional Photographers 100 most influential photographers.
Anyway – this is well worth a watch if you’re into photography and in particular 50s street photography from New York or fashion photography of the same era. It’s a testament to the strength of doing things your own way. His comments can be quite cutting and to the point but in not too unpleasant a way – quite funny infact. You can tell from a few of the scenes that he really likes people of all kinds ….. other than fools of course
Although not a massive geek in things IT and only a bit in Photography the whole Lytro thing does get the inspiration/geek mojo going – exciting science.
Just seen that Lytro are introducing new software to do “stuff” that is fairly cool:
Although not hugely amazing in terms of being able to walk around a scene or anything like that – it is still rather cool.
If you’re not aware of Lytro – it’s the camera where you can change focus after taking the picture! There are plenty of examples on their YouTube page. When it was first announced I thought – oh – it’ll only be a fad. And I still think it’s a little bit of a fad and will unlikely have a place in “serious” photography or at least for a while yet – mostly as you need a special viewer to use the pictures fully – but I now think it’s rather cool and fun. The “cool” bit is the geeky science behind it – the “light field” technology. As I understand it : when recording the light hitting the sensor (as normal digital cameras do) they can also measure in what direction all the light was travelling in – be it photons or pixels. And with this data – then can calculate where the light would be a bit earlier or later and so mathematically alter where the virtual sensor is – thus changing focal point. I assume that this perspective addition is similar but different mathematics.
When announced I was expecting them to be massive and expensive – but they’re actually quite small – compact camera size!
They’reselling for $499 and $399 so ~ £250 and £320.
Am I tempted to get one – well a little, just for the geekery. Will I ? Probably not, although not new at full price…. Seeing as they don’t currently have an outlet/distributor in the UK I guess 2nd hand ones won’t be available in the UK for a while yet.
Bit of a geek-out post this!
Sigma have announced a new 35mm f/1.4 lens. Priced at $899
Nothing massively interesting there – although I would have hoped it would be cheaper – mind you – Nikon 35mm f/1.4G is £1299!
BUT the funky-doo-dah thing is that you can buy an optional part that allows you to connect the lens to a computer! Not to take photos of course ,as this would need an imaging chip – but to update the lens itself! i.e. adjust the internal lenses, updating firmware etc! Some cameras have micro-adjustment settings to fine-tune them per lens – but this means you can do it directly to the lens without including the camera – which I guess should mean that it will be optimized for all cameras. I didn’t even know lenses had firmware! Updating is done via the software Sigma optimization Pro.
Not a photography item – but rather a personal one.
You’ve likely heard of Movember – well I’m taking part this year
Movember is a cancer charity about and against common male cancer issues i.e. Prostate and Testicular cancer. Many cancers are curable these days if caught early – however guys being guys – we’ll often not go to the doctors if we spot something. So as well as fund-raising Movember is about awareness too. Part of the registration phase for the website is to click that you’ve gone for a health check – I like that.
I’m going to be photographing my “mo” progress over the month and hope to compile a short time-lapse of my moustache. Couple of quick shots below – on the morning of the 1st after a shave and then just now – evening of the 4th.
Additionally I’ve joined the Movember team of Phill Bloom – a famous videographer and blogger. He’s managed to get a load of video and camera suppliers to donate equipment for a prize draw. There are two ways to win – creating a video about/for the cause and to donate more than $14/£20 either to someone who’s part of the team or to the team in general. So if you fancy donating to me (please) – you can actually win some pretty impressive equipment! See here for details – you need to mail him your donation receipt.
I would be tempted to create a video but I’ve not really done anything like that before and don’t know what i could cover. May yet think of something.
More updates to come.
Yes I said mouse!
Photographers are used to talking about or reading about pen-tablets – and they have their place – however I personally tend to see this largely as being when you need to do fine detailed work such as cleaning up skin or hair on studio shoots, or table-top product shoots. But for the most part I don’t need to go down to this level of detail – events being the most common example for myself. It may be because I’ve not totally got used to the tablet as yet (I have a Wacom Intuous 5 small).
Before getting my tablet I’d customised my Photoshop so that my most used functions were assigned shortcut keys. I had to assign these in a couple of instances but Photoshop makes this easy as almost anything can be assigned a shortcut key.
My most used actions when editing photos like event photos are:
- Maximize image
And on the whole – that’s it. There will be a few instances when I do other work but those are by far the most common.
As I use layers a lot of these were shift-key combinations i.e. you had to press the shift key down and a letter key to operate the shortcut. These are the shortcut keys I set up, or were in place. Not a lot of thought was put into these initially but it’s what I got used to eventually.
- Levels Layer : Shift-, (shift and comma)
- Curves Layer : Shit-M
- Sharpen : Shift-F (This is the default shortcut for re-doing the last filter done)
- Flatten : Ctrl-Shift-F
Although shortcut keys do certainly quicken the workflow (rather than selecting the item from Photoshop menus or sub-menus) it’s still a bit of a break in the flow – hands need to move, find keys, press them etc. This is especially so when the key-combination isn’t simple to do with one hand and both need to move (this is where I think I should have assigned simpler short-cut keys). So I had the idea of looking to find a mouse that has assignable buttons. Not sure now but I knew they existed – maybe just noticing one in a computer shop when doing something else.
There’s a whole wealth of mice out there with more than the usual 2/3 mouse buttons – a huge amount in fact. They’re called gaming mice. Of course these are directed towards the gamers as they want to do certain actions quickly without swaping hand in case they get blown up …… where’s that key to change weapon *BOOM* – damn game over…. and such like.
They come in all shapes and sizes – some even have customizable shapes ! But their price range also vary significantly.
I had a brief look around and decided on some main requirements:
- At least 3 definable buttons in addition to standard 2
- Wired (don’t see the point of having wireless if it’s never leaving my desk and don’t want to waste batteries)
- Optical (rather than laser – seen some iffy reviews)
- Affordable (I’m not a gear freak in terms of PC stuff so didn’t see the point in spending £100 on a mouse!)
In the end (after looking at specs and reading reviews) I decided to go for the Logitech G400.
I bought it for something like £25/27 (probably Amazon) rather than the £35 listed on the Logitech site.
In addition to the usual 3 buttons (left, right, roller-with click) it has an additional 5 buttons. Two at the side that are assigned to anything and three at the top which are usually assigned to precision/speed.
In the software that comes with it you can assign these to different actions, e.g.:
- Keystroke (single)
- Mouse function
- Media (e.g. play, pause)
- Hotkey (e.g. windows operation e.g. open/close a window)
- Function (e.g. Open windows “My Computer” window)
This picture shows the interface and what I’ve assigned them to/called them:
So they are :
- Levels (New levels layer)
- Curves (New Curves Layer)
- Flat-Filter (Flatten the image and then Sharpen – or last filter)
- Full (Maximise image window)
- Saturation (New Saturation level)
Each one refers to a “Multi Key” combination and one does two things (Flatten + Sharpen). You can do these using the tool/driver to record what you press – so it’s just a matter of clicking record and then doing the key presses. This also records lifting the keys after you’ve done. But one important thing to remember is that on the New layer combinations you also need to press Enter if you want to accept the default name of the window, which I usually do, else you’re left with the new layer prompt. If I want to rename it for a longer edit I can do that later.
So here’s the combination for new Levels Layer as an example (usually Shift-, on the keyboard):
Rest is fairly simple really.
As seen in the first image you can set different button settings for different applications. It does come with some suggested configurations but almost all of these are games …. which I don’t have or have the time to play. Of late I have found that it can struggle to pick up which application I’m using sometime, especially when going from Bridge to CameraRaw and then to Photoshop. I’ll press a button to do something but instead of my assigned function something else will happen e.g. instead of maximising the image the mouse will get more sensitive (quicker). This can be solved by doing a windows alt-tab to swap away and then again back to Photoshop. Annoying sometimes but on the whole the mouse is saving me a lot of time. Very glad I bought it even though I now have a Wacom tablet too.
Not a very exciting blog post – but hopefully one that may help others.
I have a set of Elinchrom Skyport Speed radio triggers – one transmitter and two receivers. Recently one of the receivers stopped working. The transmitter has a replaceable battery but the receivers have an internal rechargeable battery which you charge by plugging in an AC adapter. The malfunctioning receiver wouldn’t turn on. When plugged in to AC power the LED would glow as it should when charging BUT a lot dimmer than the working receiver. I tried to charge it well over 3hrs as described in instructions – but then after disconnecting the power it wouldn’t work. Wouldn’t even turn on properly when the AC was plugged in as I’ve read it should.
I bought the set January 2011 so over a year ago and couldn’t find a reference to warranty period online so was worried that it would be out of warranty. However after mentioning the dilemma on Facebook, friends mentioned that under EU law electronics should have a warranty of two years. And sure enough – after contacting the retailer (Photomart) they said I could get it repaired under warranty – joy! After sending it to Photomart they sent it to The Flash Centre – the Uk distributor and service centre for Elinchrom who repaired it and sent it back.
On it’s return there was a note (below) stating that the battery had discharged so significantly that it couldn’t regain power – interesting. The note was A5 and seemed pre-prepared as if this isn’t an un-common issue- and so I thought it worth blogging so others with a similar issue and googling the issue know what to do. It may be worth charging your receivers from time to time in the hope of preventing this also – or if you commonly only use one – to swap them.
The Skyport Universal Speed Receiver internal battery has been reformed due to a deep state of discharge.
The most likely cause is that the skyport has been stored away for a period of time in a discharged state.
Therefore we recommend that you recharge the skyport after each use to avoid similar occurring in the future.
The Li-ion battery charges in approx. 3hrs
Auto-Standby function after 4 hours.
Internal rechargeable battery lasts up to 30 hrs.
Yesterday I did a job for Brad and Ian at Materials Council and Architronic at their stand at the Super Brands London exhibition – part of the London Design Festival. It involved photographing their stand and the surrounding area in the morning before the public turned up and then coming back in the evening for the opening reception.
Photography geekyness wise it’s not overly difficult however there were some areas to keep an eye on. The exhibition is called “Whiter than White” where the Materials Council is displaying some of its white materials. So the areas to keep an eye out are :
White Balance – With mixed lighting (white light panels above, and more orange Tungsten not far away) then white balance is something to keep a close eye on, especially since the title of the display has the word “White” in it – wouldn’t be great if everything was orange! The obvious get-out for this is to shoot RAW and choose the White Balance later in post production – so this is what I did.
Exposure – When you get a viewfinder full of white – and if on some camera automated exposure mode there is the danger that the camera will under expose the white to get it averaged out for middle gray. There are different techniques to counter this – and I used a mix depending on the scenario. When steadily photographing the white material – going up and down the display I switched the camera to manual and set the exposure myself. The lighting on the display was fairly even so this was made possible. At other times when moving around photographing people around the display etc – I generally used Aperture Priority set to 2.8 for nice shallow depth of field, but set the camera to exposure compensation of +1/3. This could on occasion be not enough, or too much – but since I was shooting RAW this gives more leave-way to change the exposure later on.
With post production the trick is to get the material to be white, but not blow-out the details. Also while shooting and editing the old term of “expose to the right” applies i.e. exposing so that the historgram sides to the right – more white, but without over exposing. The point of this is that making things darker in photoshop etc tends to be better than making them lighter – as noise etc becomes more evident then.
Here’s a quick selection of the opening night. Got in rather late but edited a quick few for their newsletter today.
if you’re wandering about the Gin – then they were the sponsors of the Architronic areas (presentation area turned bar for the reception)
I took a few pictures of some of the areas – and will upload a couple of pictures later on.
In collaboration with Super Brands London – the Tent London show is going on at the same time in another part of the venue – The Old Truman Brewery in Brick Lane. I was quite surprised to see this as it was upstairs and a LOT bigger than I expected – it was huge. As far as I can tell – Super Brands was for the larger more established designer companies, and then Tent was for the smaller companies – either starting out or still relatively small scale.
Unfortunately – as I was working I didn’t really have the time to photograph them but there’s plenty to see.
If you’re into interior or furniture/fittings design and free over the weekend – I highly suggest going. Mind you – open House London is also on this weekend. Entrance for Super Brands/Tent London is £8 in advance or £10 on the door for adults. Less for kids etc.
Nice little video on/from Magnum photographer Christopher Anderson.
Talks briefly about how he became a photographer, “fell” into war/conflict photography and then out again.
Bit of an arty piece – uses words such as “engaged”, “conciousness” etc which all too often can be used in far too much of a high-brow manner, but in a very down to earth way. I appreciate that.
Unfortunately I can’t embed it – wordpress.com doesn’t like script embedding – boo WordPress/oolaya
Something I came across in my Photography news feeds:
Since jacobs have gone bust – a lot of their stock is being auctioned off. This will be over four days and has already started see:
All the good stuff i.e. SLR related is on day 3 – so still available.
There is a potential for huge bargains since there is so much going on sale in so little time. BUT I think the snag is you need to collect in person 10-12th September 9am to 4pm, and more-so for me – I think the location is the Jacobs offices in Leicester. Darn. Would love a couple of cheap primes.
All too often, especially for photographers coming from a background such as myself (colourful + brash nightlife events), a lot of us photographers aim for the colourful/stunning/sharp/alarming/shocking portrait. All these words mean different things – but on the whole they all lend themselves to an overall term of ”Striking”. I know I’m very guilty of it myself – lots of people finding their way in a skill will do the same – be it photography, painting, drawing, music etc. We will of course over-do things sometime but then see the benefits of toning things down. I try sometimes. It’s of course very understandable as being striking – these sorts of images are the ones that often inspire us most.
Just come across this interview with photographer Gregory Heisler. Although he touches on a couple of topics – such as dealing with subjects/clients – the area and topic which I found inspiring was his discussion of what he calls the “quiet” picture.
Take a look:
Reading this in a photography mag earlier:
“But there are those photographers, such as Eggleston, who insist they’re doing nothing more than looking through the lens and capturing things that interest them; Eggleston, as you know, is famously opposed to any intellectual investigation of his work” it struck a chord as on the whole I dislike photograpic discussions that mess around with juxtapositions etc etc.
So while looking up for some confirmation/quotes I came across this:
With this fantastic exert:
“Back in the mid-Nineties, when Primal Scream were recording their album Give Out But Don’t Give Up in Memphis, they paid a call on Eggleston to ask if they could use Troubled Waters, his strange image of a neon Confederate flag and a palm tree, on the cover. ‘I remember he was wearing jodhpurs and leather boots, some kind of military outfit, and walking about with a rifle and a bayonet,’ recalls lead singer Bobby Gillespie. ‘When he heard we were Scottish, he sat down at the piano and started reciting great chunks of Rabbie Burns. It was surreal.’
Gillespie’s friend, the filmmaker Douglas Hart, takes up the story. ‘William and his wife were knocking back these massive drinks. He asked us to let him hear a song, and then he would decide if we could have the picture. We played him “Moving On Up”, and he fell on his knees and started shouting, “Bo Diddley! Bo Diddley! Y’all love Bo Diddley!” He rummaged through his records and pulled out “I’m the Meat Man”, by Jerry Lee [Lewis] and played it so loud the speakers blew. Then his wife shouted, “Y’all want ribs?” She insisted we all go to a local rib joint. It was wild.’ Gillespie nods in agreement. ‘He let us have the picture though. He was a true gent.‘”
Ha – how cool!
Will have to read up on him some more.
Edit – here’s another from the Guardian article:
“He wore Savile Row suits and drove a Bentley, and played classical piano, but he was more rock’n'roll than any of us, even though he probably hated the music we were making. He’d shoot with some kind of night vision lens often until the bitter end, then just fall over unconscious on the floor. He wasn’t just at the party, he was the party. When he and Stanley Booth [the Memphis-based rock writer] got together, it was like World War Three.”
How good is this!
Love all the elements, more so when put together.
Originally from Fstoppers.
Interesting shortish (22min) interview with Steve McCurry (photographer of the famous “Afghan girl” photo :
I thought people might be interested in:
Here’s another with him in a bit, following him down the street:
I notice in this second one he completely swaps over his hands and grip compared to what one would normally do.
(Originally found on PetaPixel)